A freezer that is cold but not cold enough is a more common call than a freezer that has stopped entirely, and the causes are different. Start by measuring rather than judging by feel: a freezer thermometer should read at or near 0°F, which is the temperature at which frozen food keeps properly.
Handle the Food First
Food that still holds ice crystals, or that has stayed at or below 40°F, can generally be refrozen, although texture may suffer. Anything that has warmed past 40°F and stayed there should be discarded rather than assessed by smell. If you are unsure how long it has been drifting, treat it as unsafe; that is the USDA position and it is the right one.
Checks an Owner Can Make
- Loading. A freezer needs air to circulate. Packing boxes tight against the rear or side vents starves the compartment nearest them. Leave a gap around vents.
- Door seal. Close the door on a slip of paper and pull; if it slides out freely at several points along the gasket, the seal is tired or the door is out of alignment.
- Frost pattern. Even, light frost on the rear wall is normal. A thick sheet of ice is not, and it will itself block airflow.
- Condenser coils. Unplug first, then vacuum the coils behind the grille or at the rear, and plug the appliance back in.
- Setting. Confirm the setpoint has not been nudged, and if you have just changed it, allow a full day before judging the result.
What Needs a Technician
Once loading, sealing and coils are ruled out, the usual findings are a failed defrost component letting frost blanket the evaporator, an evaporator fan that has stalled, or a sealed-system problem. All three sit behind panels and around live wiring. Do not chip frost off with a knife or a screwdriver, since a punctured evaporator turns a repair into a replacement, and do not run a heat gun inside the cabinet.
If the compartment has not recovered a day after clearing vents and cleaning coils, book a Whirlpool freezer repair visit and say what the thermometer actually reads.